Inventory for sale is listed below

Currently FIVE great prepared Bugeyes are in stock and ready for delivery to your door!

Other great classics too!

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1958 Excellent Restored Leaf Green Bugeye Sprite for sale, “Luigi!”
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1959 Austin Healey Sprite, restored with automatic transmission!
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1960 Bugeye Sprite for sale,”Carmine,” Striking & Supercharged!
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1960 Restored Bugeye Sprite for sale, “Palmer,” stock and sorted!
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1960 Striking restored Bugeye Sprite for sale, “Gibbs!”
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1963 Austin Healey Sprite Mark II restoration project for sale, with 1098 engine and disk brakes
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59 Bugeye Sprite driver with period Kellison nose!
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60 Bugeye Sprite driver for sale, “Booker”
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64K mile 1971 Volvo P1800E for sale, overdrive!
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73 TR6 for sale, excellent driver, thousands spent on restoration!
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Stunning 1969 MGC for sale, original colors, matching engine, low mileage, price reduced!

Bugeye Basics-How to fit a Bugeye Sprite top frame and top/hood

Here’s the first installment of a new series we call Bugeye Basics. In these videos and posts, we will answer the most common questions from new Sprite owners.

Today, we cover the operation of the top bows and top. You can see this detailed in two separate videos below. We’ve added a new category in the right margin called “Bugeye Basics,” so you can find this and other basics posts easily in the future.

In the video, we highlight a few useful products, which you can order at the link below. In particular, every one of these tops is very vulnerable to boot rash, which happens when the clear plastic window gets scratched up from sliding around in your trunk. Our bag ensures your top will look just as good when you take it out as when you put it in.
Check out all of our Bugeye Top product offerings by clicking here.


All about Bugeye Sprite side curtains

Here’s a sidecurtain basics video, requested by a few different clients who were putting on their Bugeye windows for the very first time.

If you want to extend your driving season, side curtains are essential. The problem is that most of them have been damaged from a lifetime sliding around the boot. And when you go to use them, the scratches in the windows reduce visibility dramatically, and render them almost useless. So back in the boot they go, never to be used again.

We have the parts so you can give your windows another chance… we sell new plexi in our catalog, and new window sets if yours are missing. And new rubber gaskets too, should those be needed. But most important is a soft pouch, to protect the plexi and ensure scratch free windows, and thus good visibility, and safety for all occupants!

Buy a set of new side curtains by clicking here

Buy a side curtain pouch by clicking here

Click here to head over to the Side Curtain section of our Online Parts Catalog 

How to properly fuel a classic car

I am constantly surprised to see classic cars with paint damage beneath their fuel filler neck. Gasoline is corrosive and you don’t want to get any on your paint if you can avoid it. So I made a fuel-fill video below so you can see my technique to prevent fuel from spilling.

First off, self-service fueling is required. I would never leave this to a stranger so full service is very high risk. In fact, I  have seen several cars with fuel nozzle scrapes near the fuel fill. Some people just aren’t very careful when they are swinging the spout!

Secondly, topping off these old cars is risky. If you overfill the car and then park it in the sun, the vented caps will bleed fuel out of the tank and perhaps onto your paint. Sometimes filler necks leak onto the top of the fuel tank, which never smells good. So try to stop filling about a half gallon from the very top. That leaves some room for expansion. I believe the photo above is damage from heat expansion overflow. So if you overfill, make sure to burn some fuel before you park the car in the sun!

And finally, try not to move the nozzle out of your tank before the fuel has drained out, that way, you won’t drag a few drops onto the paint and cause damage!